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6 EASY 4000 AT MONTE ROSA


Capanna Margherita and 6 easy 4000

Group

Max.4
Guests

Meeting

h. 12 A.M.
Staffal Gressoney

Difficulty

INTERMEDIATE MOUNTANENEER

Days Tour

4 Days

Price

Info Guide

The Margherita Hut tour is a 4-day adventure in the Monte Rosa massif, with the goal of reaching the Margherita Hut at 4,554m - the highest alpine hut in Europe. This iconic summit challenge is tailored for a group of max 4 participants, starting from the meeting point in Staffal, Gressoney. With a medium difficulty level, the itinerary features gradual acclimatization to altitude and aims to bring the group to the top of several stunning 4000m peaks, including the Margherita Hut on day 3. The complete experience costs 1800€ total, to be divided between the max of 4 participants.

Why Visit The Margherita Hut? The Margherita Hut offers a truly once in a lifetime mountaineering experience. Sitting at 4,554 meters, it is the highest refuge in the Alps and provides unparalleled access to breathtaking scenery and views. The multi-day journey to reach the hut is a challenging yet rewarding test of limits that provides a sense of achievement upon arrival. Reaching the Margherita Hut is a bucket list goal for many mountaineers. The hut sits among the iconic peaks of Monte Rosa, providing 360 degree views of stunning snow-capped mountains, expansive glaciers, and sheer cliffs. The dramatic landscape surrounding the hut is like nowhere else in the Alps. The journey to access the hut also allows mountaineers to test their skills and endurance at high altitude over multiple days. The gradual ascent profile helps acclimatize to the altitude while passing impressive peaks like Vincent Pyramid. Overcoming the physical and mental challenges to finally reach the Margherita Hut is an incredible feeling of personal accomplishment. For mountaineers seeking a once in a lifetime alpine experience, factoring in a multi-day journey to reach the Margherita Hut is highly recommended. The unforgettable scenery and challenge will create lasting memories.

MARGHERITA TOUR - Day by Day

1° Day

Arrive at Staffal after Gressoney in the early afternoon to meet your guide and group. From here, you'll take the cable car up to Punta Indren and start the journey to the Gnifetti Hut. The hike to the Gnifetti Hut takes around 1.5 hours, following a route equipped with ropes that leads along the glacier. This is a beautiful walk, with stunning views of the Monte Rosa massif surrounding you. Once at the Gnifetti Hut, get settled into your accommodation for the night and take some time to relax and enjoy a delicious dinner. This is at 3,647m altitude, so take it easy and let your body adjust. A good night's rest is important to be ready for the big day ahead!

2° Day

After an early start, we cross the glacier to reach the West Ridge of Vincent Pyramid. Here we tackle sections of climbing and walking over rock, stopping halfway to rest before continuing to the 4215m summit. From Vincent Pyramid, we descend to Col Vincent and via a rock jump secured with pitons, we reach Balmenhorn (4167m). After a group photo and a snack, we take on the most challenging summit, Schwartzorn (4322m). With ropes at the ready, we overcome a short 40 degree icy slope to reach Ludwigshöhe (4343m). From here, we finally view Margherita Hut, our destination for the next day. We start descending the Lys Glacier along the Normal Route to Margherita and make it back to Gnifetti Hut just in time for apéritif! Elevation gain: 700m, time: 6 hours The gradual ascent allows our bodies to acclimatize to the altitude over multiple days before reaching the highest point of the tour, Margherita Hut. After a satisfying day in the high mountains, we descend back to Gnifetti Hut for dinner and rest.

3° Day

On day 3, we scale the normal route up to Margherita Hut and Zumsteinspitze at 4,563m. We cross the first crevasse zones at dawn and traverse gentler slopes below the summits climbed the previous day. We reach Lyskamm Col, with Lyskamm beside us and Dufourspitze (4,610m) ahead, then follow the track ascending from Monte Rosa hut via the Swiss normal route. To reach Margherita Hut, we tackle one final challenging yet rewarding stretch, finally arriving at the highest hut in the Alps! A unique experience in the thin air at high altitude. Elevation gain: 900m, time: 4 hours After a rest at Margherita Hut, we retrace our steps back down the normal route we ascended and descend to Punta Indren using the lifts to return to Staffal.

4° Day

On the final day, we have the option to summit Parrotspitze depending on the group's energy levels and weather conditions. Parrotspitze stands at 4,432m, so offers another chance to take in the incredible views from the high alpine terrain. After completing any optional summits, we make our way back down the normal route from Margherita Hut. This follows the same path we took uphill on day 3. The terrain is steep in places, so we take care on the descent. Once we reach the bottom of the glacier, we take the cable car back down to the town of Staffal. After 4 days of hiking and climbing, it's time to rest our legs and celebrate our achievement of reaching Margherita Hut - the highest manned refuge in the Alps!

useful Infomation

WHATH'S INCLUDED:
  • The cost of the 4-day excursion to Rifugio Margherita includes, 3 half-boards at the refuges, lifts, mountain guide services, the use of all common climbing equipment and rescue and recovery insurance in Europe.
  • THE COST DOEN'T INCLUDED:
  • Transportation to/from the meeting point in Gressoney.
  • extra expenses at the refuge for drinks, lunches etc
  • Anything not specified under "What's Included".

  • NOTE:
  • A deposit is required at the time of booking (30%), with the balance due 15 days before departure;
  • The tour can be arranged on other dates according to your needs by customizing the program for multiple days.
  • You can consult the Contractual Conditions HERE
""Magnificent powder descent at 5 stars. Thanks again to Luigi for the beautiful ride and for the advice on how to use the splitboard uphill (being on my first outing). Absolutely recommended!Google
Luca Filios, Snowborder
"I climbed with Luigi to Torre Delago and Torre Stabeler. It was an exceptional guide who allowed me to climb a classic and beautiful route that I had been admiring for some time. With great professionalism and friendliness, he accompanied me to the summit, explaining the various rope maneuvers and knots needed. I highly recommend for any summer and winter experience!! Thank you Luigi!!" Google
Marcella Cabrini, Climber
"Fantastic experience on the Tridentina via ferrata! Luigi was the perfect guide and made us feel 'at home' even in the most challenging sections. He knows the area very well, so make sure to leverage his expertise for any advice you may need!! :) We can't wait to come back for another via ferrata!!! Thank you!!"Google
Matteo Frizziero, Fist via Ferrata
""Went on an alpine climbing outing. Excellent experience, very friendly and highly knowledgeable person, I recommend him." Google
Riccardo Dini, Climber
"I highly recommend the guide for challenging climbs, via ferratas, and hikes. The undersigned was extremely satisfied with the ascent to Torre Stabeler, Vajolet." Goggle
Aidano Gatti, Climber

FAQ

Faq Mountaneering

  • First Steps in Mountaineering

    The high-altitude mountains can also be climbed by trained hikers with a good habit of walking and capable of covering elevation gains of at least 1000-1200 meters on mountain trails. Each person will have to deal with acclimatization and altitude sickness; the guide will teach you how to walk with crampons and an ice axe when crossing glacial terrain, as well as the rules of roped climbing.

  • Quali sono le Gite Collettive?

    On the Calendar page, you will find all the dates of the Collective Mountaineering Trips, which normally take place on routes ranging from Easy to Medium Difficulty on the main mountains of the Alps. For a more efficient organization, I ask you to book in advance by putting yourself on the list for the days of interest; we will form the groups more quickly, and the outing can be confirmed once the minimum number of participants is reached (usually 4-5). If the minimum is not reached, the outing can still take place by renegotiating the participation fee.

  • Private climbs with the guide

    "Private outings" are outings requested by clients on any date, where the guide will accompany you on single-day or multi-day mountaineering excursions.

  • What to bring in the backpack

    We start with a good pair of waterproof boots, crampons, ice axe, harness, and a good helmet.

    :
    In the backpack - sunglasses
    - mask - thermos or water bottle
    - running food, energy bars, chocolate
    - hange of clothes for the hut and a sleeping bag liner for the night
    - gloves, light and heavy
    - beanie
    - 35-liter backpack

  • Come mi devo vestire?

    Il nostro abbigliamento è a "strati", che ci consente di modulare il nostro calore in funzione della temperatura esterna e non sudare eccessivamente. Di seguito un breve elenco:

    - Intimo merinos
    - pile light
    - piumino leggero
    - goretex jacket
    - medium-weight trousers
    - spare socks

  • Meeting Point?

    The meeting place and times will be communicated prior to the outing. A general location is always indicated in the itinerary.

    . 

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